Watch-Making
Introduction
Signal Mechanical Alarm, ca 1960s, 1st Moscow Watch Factory, USSR
In early 2005, for the first time in five or six years, I was in the market for a time piece. I wanted something interesting, with character, something a little unique. Definately not digital. No plastic.
My search initially led me to a very nice Citizen Eco-Drive. But it was out of my price-range — about $500. I then turned my eye towards mechanical watches. No quartz, no battery, no solar. My budget was too tight for anything new and current — fashionable new mechanical watches are very costly — so my attention turned to the vintage section on eBay.
There, I came across an inexpensive ‘vintage’ watch from the 1980s – that happened to have been made in the U.S.S.R. That began my love and fascination of Soviet timepieces – which would be a webpage all its own – so for more info on Soviet/Russian watches, just see the links below.
Quickly I found myself with a small collection of Soviet watches. I then realized they would need service sooner or later (like cars, mechanical watches need to be properly maintained). When the watches themselves are so inexpensive, it didn’t make sense to pay high prices for professional service – yet the watches are good quality and will need service. So there was only one logical solution.
I proceeded to start teaching myself watchmaking.
Learning & Research
Movement Caliber 10BT, 1951, Bulova Watch Co., Swiss
The internet can be a great resource, if you know how to search and where to look. Suffering from chronic insomnia helps too. Insomnia, and an obsessive-compulsive need to always learn new stuff.
I started finding websites of watch enthusiasts, amateur watchmakers, and watch manufacturers. I started reading everything I could find on the subject. I would read and re-read things, memorizing parts, draw sketches of wheel trains and motion works. I found a few horological forums, and read all the posts and articles I could find about watch making and repair.
Along the way I came across the TimeZone Tool Shop, an online store that sold watch parts and watchmakers’ tools. They sell the kits that are used in the TimeZone Watch School. I immediately ordered the Level 1 kit, along with some other watch parts, and got to work. I must admit, although I have heard a lot of good things about the TimeZone Watch School, I have not yet enrolled. I keep planning to, but then I keep thinking I’d rather spend the money on another Soviet watch, or some more tools or watch parts. I will definately do it sooner or later though. If not the Level 1 class, then certainly the Level 2.
Without taking any courses, or buying any books, I have managed to teach myself enough just by reading (and reading, and reading) as well as getting helpful advice from some very kind people in the forums. So far I have repaired a faulty day-date mechanism in a Soviet watch, replaced a broken mainspring and bridge in a 1950′s era Bulova, and started designing & building my own watches.
My Home-Made Watches
These are my home-made, custom designed watches. Watches in this section are ones I have designed and made entirely by myself. Either for my own enjoyment, or as gifts for friends or family.
- SM #1
- Movement:
- Swiss Automatic ETA 2836-2
- Indications:
- Hour, Minute, Seconds, Day, Date
- Luminous:
- Hour & Minute hands; Pink (Orange Glow)
- Case Specs:
- 36mm diameter (excluding crown) x 42mm long; 11mm thick; 18mm lug width; all stainless steel, mineral glass crystal and display back. Crown 5.5mm. Water resistant to 3 atmospheres.
- Strap:
- MoD NATO, Bond style
- Details:
- My first watch project. A fairly simple assembly of off-the-shelf parts, but a good learning experience and fun to make. Plus, nothing beats wearing your own watch!
- SM #2
- Movement:
- Swiss Mechanical ST-96
- Indications:
- Hour only
- Luminous:
- None
- Case Specs:
- 36mm diameter (excluding crown) x 42mm long; 11mm thick; 18mm lug width; all stainless steel, mineral glass crystal and display back. Crown 5.5mm. Water resistant to 3 atmospheres.
- Strap:
- MoD NATO, Navy style
- Details:
- I’ve seen a couple one-handed watches elsewhere on the internet, and I thought they were really unique and interesting, so I decided to have a go at it myself. My interpretation makes the watch as simple as it can get – it tells you nothing but the time.
Resources / Links
Vostok Amphibia Mechanical Watch, ca. 1980s, Chistopol Watch Factory, USSR
- General Information Links
- Alan’s Vintage Watches
- Christophs Watch World
- Time4Watches
- TimeZone
- TimeZone Watch FAQ
- The Watch Guy
- WatchUSeek Articles
- Educational / Watchmaking Links
- Horlogerie-Suisse
- Per’s Horology
- TZ Watch School
- Soviet / Russian Links
- Andreas Ulbrich’s Komandirskie site
- Mark Gordon’s Russian Watches Collection
- Michele Cuoccio’s Russian Watches Website
- Russian Watch Forum at WUS
- Forums Links
- Poor Man’s Watch Forum
- TimeZone Forums
- WatchUSeek Watch Forums
- Commercial / Shopping Links
- Dashto Horological Supplies
- Jules Borel & Company
- Mark II Watches
- Otto Frei
- RLT Watches
- Somal Canada
- Time Zone Tool Shop